Three months ago a new clothes shop appeared in Soho in central London.
Just off Carnaby Street, opposite a designer boutique with a T-shirt
in the window saying "Fuck Off" in delicately stitched capitals,
the new Barbour store looks a little out of place at first glance. A
huge faded union flag is draped inside the doorway as if in a regimental
chapel. Old metal jerrycans, seemingly straight from a farmyard, stand
under the clothes rails. And hanging in heavy rows are Barbour's trademark
jackets, tent-like and stiff, in muddy country colours, and with antiquated,
upper-class names such as the Bedale and the Beaufort. It is hard to
see the shop lasting.
Yet early on a
raw weekday morning, with some neighbouring shops not even open yet,
there is already a steady flow of Barbour customers. Some are the
sort of people you might expect: middle-aged, prosperously dressed,
pinkish Horse and Hound complexions. But others are quite different.
A man of about
30 with fashionably rolled-up jeans, angular hair and a manbag strides
in. He flicks through the rails, then lingers over a rack of quilted
country jackets that look like something the Queen would wear. "I
think he wants that kind of old-style, boxy one," murmurs one
sales assistant to another. The man lingers for several more minutes,
but doesn't find quite what he is looking for. Yet he can probably
live with the disappointment. As he passes me on his way out, I realise
he is already wearing a Barbour.
"We opened
in September and we have already had to shut for a week to re-stock,"
says a sales assistant. "The heritage styles – the young
people want them. They wear them really fitted. Small sizes."
She gives a faintly incredulous look: "It's funny to see the
Barbour become a fashion item. I always associate them with hunting
and fishing."
Perhaps not for much longer. Over the last few years, in trendy parts
of London, at music festivals, and among clothes-horse celebrities,
Barbours have become so ubiquitous that there is even a half-mocking
nickname for the look, referencing the London borough where it is
commonest: "Hackney farmer". The boom is even affecting
sensible old John Lewis: this year, national sales of Barbours there
are up more than 80%.