Some of it
is almost identical to the original. Years ago I bought
my first vintage knee-length, long-sleeved Forties dress
in a junk shop in Bath, and blow me if it isn’t
absolutely perfect again. It’s drawn almost exactly
along the same lines as the snakeskin print, puff-shouldered,
bias-cut Isabel Marant dress that has turned out to be
one of this season’s most desired frocks.
This gives
us licence to rummage in the attic for the stashed-away
Forties acquistions of a lifetime – and to get shopping
again, in a judicious way, because the values of thrift
and ladylike reserve are all part of this revival, if
you play it right. Without veering into fancy dress, there
are many ways of reviving pencil skirts – say, with
a satin blouse dressed up with ropes of pearls and sheer
black stockings rather than opaques, or with a tight-fitting
sweater and matching cuffs on either wrist.
Under a jacket
or a trenchcoat, with platform court shoes, leather gloves
(and a pair of Forties-style sunglasses for good measure)
and a slick of red lipstick, this does smart for day in
a groomed way that feels like a zinging adult retort to
the ubiquitous short, tight slapper dresses that have
deluged commercial fashion. With Christmas coming, this
is the perfect opportunity to dress as if you’ve
just stepped out of Rick’s Bar in Casablanca.
Forties glamour
is also influencing hairstyling. The essential thing is
to find a hairdresser who can get a Veronica Lake wave
going over one eye (Daniel Hersheson is brilliant at this),
or to practise with curling tongs until you get it right.
Alternatively,
slicked-back buns and French pleats will do the job, setting
off a long neck and a pair of defined shoulders swathed
in an ostrich or marabou bolero, worn over a liquid satin
column dress. I’m already working on my version
with a cherry red Ava Gardner-meets-YSL dress by Roksanda
Ilincic to wear to the British Fashion Awards on December
9.
When fashion
veers your way once in a blue moon, grab it with both
hands.
